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When my brother decided to move to Iceland, it did not take long before we visited him. In this post you will find our itinerary and highlights from our road trip in Iceland.
The carbon footprint for this trip is approximately 2.58 T CO2e (including the flights from Amsterdam), as calculated with GoodPlanet (www.goodplanet.org/).
Contents
Quick facts about Iceland
Volcanic craters, lava fields, glaciers, waterfalls, fjords and hot springs, Iceland definitely deserves the nickname of “Land of Ice and Fire”.
Iceland was the last country in Europe to become inhabited. The founding and settlement of Iceland by Scandinavian farmers, mostly from Norway, is described in detail in the Book of Settlements, a collection of stories (sagas in Icelandic) written in the 13th and 14th centuries.
Sagas are narratives of the lives, loves and feuds of settler families who lived in Iceland from 930 to 1030 and of their descendants. Mixing legends of heroes and stories of ordinary Icelanders, the sagas are a central pillar of Icelandic literature.
Another symbol of Iceland’s national identity is the fishing industry. Fish products constitute more than 70% of Iceland’s exports of goods and are therefore by far the most important industry. The continental shelf around Iceland, where the warm Gulf Stream and the cold nutrient currents from the Arctic meet, offers very favourable conditions for various kinds of marine life, and are rich fishing grounds.
Iceland’s history is one of great conquests, subjugation and liberalism. Soon after the first settlements, Iceland became a Commonwealth, a stateless society united under a common legal code established by chieftains. This is the age of the Viking raids and conquests, which took them all over Europe, the British Isles, farther west to Greenland and even Newfoundland.
Internal struggles ended the Commonwealth and brought Iceland under the Norwegian crown in the 13th century. Then, it became a Danish dependency after Norway was ceded to Sweden following the Napoleonic Wars. During the course of the nineteenth century, Icelanders strove for emancipation from Denmark and gradually the country achieved greater independence. Finally, on 17 June 1944 Iceland officially became a republic and today, it is one of the wealthiest and most developed nations in the world. The incredible performance of the national football team at the UEFA Euro Championship 2016 rose the country to fame and asserted the unity of the entire nation around sport.
Iceland is one of the most advanced nations in terms of gender equality, taking action to prevent discrimination between men and women as far back as 1850. But gender equality goes beyond the binary in order to include all individuals, no matter their gender identity. Each year, the Reykjavík Pride is celebrated in the city center to show solidarity for the LGBTQ+ community.
Icelandic is the official language in Iceland, however, the majority of the population speaks English as a second language. The Icelandic Króna (ISK) is the official currency of Iceland. 1 ISK equals 0.0067 EUR as of 2023.
7-day road trip itinerary
Book 1: Reykjavík
The first Viking settlers called Reykjavík the “Bay of Smokes” because of its exceptional geothermal activity. Today, the capital is living up to its name in a new way. Street art, cozy cafes and museums spawn in the city like mushrooms after rain.
Located in the center of Reykjavík, Hallgrímskirkja is the largest church in Iceland and an integral part of the city’s identity. It was designed to resemble the country’s magnificent glaciers and mountains.
With the imposing Hallgrímskirkja Church in the background, Rainbow Street is one of the main streets in Reykjavík and Iceland’s proud declaration of support for LGBTQ+ rights.
Harpa is a concert hall and conference center in Reykjavík whose distinctive colored glass facade was inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland. Each year, it houses the Arctic Circle Assembly, the largest annual international gathering on the Arctic, attended by governments, organizations, corporations, universities, associations and indigenous communities.
We continue our walk in the Old Harbour to Grandi, a booming creative area filled with new restaurants, museums and activities. Perfect for a short city break or a rainy day!
Reykjavík is the ideal starting point for any visit to Iceland and on the doorstep of many incredible regions:
• The Golden Circle is a popular route between three of Iceland’s most visited attractions: the Þingvellir National Park, the Gullfoss waterfall, and the Geysir geothermal area.
• The South Coast…
• The Reykjanes Peninsula is characterized by immense lava fields, volcanoes, and heightened geothermal activity. It is also home to the Blue Lagoon, one of Iceland’s most well-known tourist attractions.
Book 2: Reykjanes
Krýsuvík
We visited the volcanic area of Krýsuvík, near the Reykjanes Peninsula. Located just thirty-five minutes from Reykjavík, it is an ideal destination for a day trip.
The Kleifarvatn lake is the largest lake on the Reykjanes Peninsula surrounded by a barren landscape of sandstone cliffs and black sand beaches.
In Seltún, the wooden pathways allow you to walk safely between several fumaroles and mud pots with boiling water. The dramatic red, green, and yellow hills frame a stretch of steaming volcanic vents and hot springs.
From https://icelandtravelguide.is/
Fagradalsfjall
Recent seismic activity in the region woke up the Fagradalsfjall volcano from her millennial sleep. Accompanied by a guide, we hiked to the recent eruption site to watch the shield maiden’s wrath. Unfortunately, the lava had already cooled and solidified. We were a bit disappointed but it was still a nice experience.
We booked this tour with GetYourGuide (https://www.getyourguide.fr/).
Book 3: Snæfellsnes
We head north on Road 1 (the Ring Road) on a scenic route to Borgarfjörður and the village of Borgarnes where a short stop is required. About one hour further, we reach the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Confined between Reykjavík in the south and the Westfjords in the north, this large Peninsula once thrived as an important fishing hub due to the rich marine resources of its surrounding waters. Several towns were established along the coast, contributing to the economic development of the region.
In addition to its maritime history, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is also rich in folklore and legends. A mythical stone giant and a sacred volcano with a magical aura are what await you.
Búðir
Búðir is a small hamlet in the easternmost tip of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. It is famous for its black church, sitting on a rugged field of lava grown over with grass and moss. Behind it is Bjarnarfoss, a stunning waterfall with a nice short hike up a steep slope.
Arnarstapi and Hellnar
These two coastal villages provide excellent view points for birdwatching. At the cliff’s edge, where the crushing waves have carved out a cave in the rock, stands a huge stone statue of Bárður Snæfellsás, one of the first settlers of Iceland and protector of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Snæfellsjökull National Park
Located on the tip of the Peninsula, Snæfellsjökull National Park is a jewel for nature lovers. The park boasts a variety of landscapes, including lava fields, coastal cliffs, and picturesque beaches.
It is dominated by the mighty Snæfellsjökull glacier-capped volcano, famously known as the “Gateway to the Center of the Earth” from Jules Verne’s novel.
Stykkishólmur
The old fishing village of Stykkishólmur, brings our journey in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula to a peaceful end. The town, dotted with colorful houses lined along the harbor, creates a postcard-worthy scene.
Book 4: Westfjords
We follow Road 61 via Hólmavík to the Westfjords (Vestfirðir in Icelandic). This remote land is the least populous administrative district of Iceland. Situated in the north west of the country, it is only connected to it by a seven-kilometer-wide Isthmus which can be inaccessible for many months of the year due to snow and storms. On clear days with good visibility, it is possible to see the eastern coast of Greenland.
Ísafjörður
Ísafjörður, literally the “Fjord of Ice”, is the capital of the Westfjords region. It is located on a spit of sand at the mouth of Ísafjarðardjúp, a large fjord with many branches. There, in Iceland’s faraway Westfjords, just south of the Arctic Circle, we found my brother. Together, we continue our road trip in Iceland.
Located about half an hour drive from Ísafjörður, Flateyri is a small but beautiful village resting in a tranquil fjord, Önundarfjörður, whose pier offers a stunning view on this quiet corner of the Westfjords. Not so long ago, the only way from Isafjordur to Flateyri was over a difficult and dangerous mountain road. Today, they are connected by the longest tunnel in Iceland.
Þingeyri
Heading south, we make a stop in Þingeyri, the only town in the Dýrafjörður fjord. A little distance outside of the village is a road leading up to the small mountain Sandafell. From the top, you can see amazing views appearing over the nearby valleys. Perfect for a hike!
Fjallfoss
Deep in the Westfjords, the Dynjandi waterfall (also called Fjallfoss) is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. Its particularity is that the water does not descend vertically, but follows the rock wall taking the shape of a bridal veil. We end our journey with a bath in a hot spring on the south coast of the Westfjords. Hats mandatory!
A lot of people choose to drive to Látrabjarg, the largest seabird cliff in Iceland, and for good reason: the cliffs are home to millions of birds, including Iceland’s famous puffins.
Useful information when traveling to Iceland
How to get around in Iceland?
The main road in Iceland is called the Ring Road (Hringvegurinn in Icelandic). It follows Iceland’s spectacular coast except the Westfjords. It is not possible to use public transportation to go a full circle. During the summer months (June – mid September), a dense bus service runs to all major places in Iceland but it may be limited in the winter due to the bad weather. That’s why the best way to get around Iceland is to rent a car and drive yourself.
We rented a car from Keflavík International Airport with Geysir (https://www.geysir.is/).
Where to sleep in Iceland?
We spent 3 nights in Reykjavík at the Guesthouse Galtafell (https://galtafell.com/). It is a fantastic location with everything we wanted no more than 15 minutes walk away and free public parking in the street in front of the house. We didn’t sleep in the Reykjanes Peninsula. Then we spent 1 night in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula at the Sýsló Guesthouse (https://syslo.is/). This cosy hostel located in the old town of Stykkishólmur has eight rooms with private bathrooms and a common living room where we had a really good time with the other guests over dinner. Finally, we spent 3 nights in the Westfjords at my brother’s house in Ísafjörður.
Where to eat in Iceland?
Fish has been Iceland’s typical food forever and despite the fact that Iceland has become more vegan-friendly in recent years, it is difficult to find vegetarian options (let alone vegan) in restaurants and grocery stores. Luckily, Reykjavík has a lot of vegan options.
To find vegan options in Reykjavík, we used the app HappyCow (https://www.happycow.net/).