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Our fascination for the Nordic countries comes from long ago. Idyllic landscapes, enchanting wildlife, glaciers and waterfalls, as well as breathtaking fjords. This led to the idea of starting a journey… entirely flight-free!
In this post you will find our itinerary and highlights all the way from Denmark to Sweden & Norway.
CONTENTS
3-week itinerary
Week 1 – The Bohuslän Coast
Malmö
Malmö is a town located in southern Sweden in the neighboring county of Skåne. It is connected to Denmark by the Öresund bridge. From Berlin, there is a direct train to Malmö, the Snälltåget, which gets you to your destination in just one night!
Västra Hamnen is a new ultramodern district, formerly used as a port and industrial area. It is home to the Turning Torso, a twisted residential tower and the tallest building in Scandinavia. It is also a great area for walks along the water and swimming (if you dare).
Just outside Västra Hamnen is the Malmöhus Castle and the surrounding castle park. There is also a pavilion with a restaurant and cafe. Make time for Fika (pronounced fee-ka) and get your fill of cakes and coffees. It’s one of my favorite Swedish traditions!
Hummusson is a vegan restaurant offering Middle East specialities like falafels, mutabbals, fava beans and grilled aubergines. I can say honestly that they make the best hummus I have ever had!
Ten minutes by bike from Slottsparken is Pildammsparken, a large green space with ponds, jogging paths and picnic areas. In summer, there are a lot of live concerts and open air events. Spontaneously, we bought a ticket to see a local band, Smith & Thell. It was such a great experience!
Göteborg
Göteborg is a friendly city on the west coast of Sweden. The best way to travel from Malmö to Göteborg is by train, and it takes just under three hours.
The oldest neighborhood in Göteborg is certainly Haga, a charming area of traditional wood buildings and cobbled streets, dotted with small shops and boutiques. It is also home to the 17th-century fortress Skansen Kronan, a hillside conference and wedding venue with panoramic views of the city.
The Garden Society of Gothenburg (Trädgårdsföreningen in Swedish) is a 19th-century park with a rose garden, and a greenhouse with palms and exotic plants. Perfect to relax on a sunny day!
Did you know that the Archipelago Islands off the coast of Göteborg can be easily reached by public transport? So take the ferry to Brännö and visit the Galterö Naturreservat, it’s truly a hidden gem!
Lysekil
The Bohuslän Coast is a picturesque landscape, with thousands of rocky islands and seaside villages. It stretches from Gothenburg up to the border with Norway. Some key destinations include Smögen, Hamburgsund and Fjällbacka.
Near Lysekil, we rented a simple coastal house, with access to a beautiful beach where we enjoyed the views until sunset. It was paradise.
Week 2 – The peaceful Sognefjord
OSLO
When arriving in Oslo, one is immediately struck by the typical silhouette of the city’s waterfront, from the modern Opera House to the medieval Akershus Slott. But the real gateway to the Norwegian capital is its 100-km-long fjord, the Oslofjord. Buses operate daily from anywhere in Bohuslän to Oslo, which will take you about five hours.
The most notable street in Oslo is Karl Johans gt., which extends from the Central Station to the Royal Palace. At night, it is buzzing with life and activity.
Just outside the city center, it is possible to find the most beautiful streets in Oslo, Damstredet and Telthusbakken. These two small cobbled streets are lined with colorful wooden houses dating back to the 19th century. It’s an idyllic setting to experience some authentic old-Norway atmosphere.
Time for a break! Haralds Vaffel serves delicious waffles, and they even have several vegan and gluten free options.
Myrdal
The Oslo to Myrdal journey by train is fantastic. This remote mountain station serves as a junction for the famous Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana in Norwegian), a picturesque train line offering valley and waterfall views. It sits on the edge of the Hardangervidda plateau, the largest plateau of its kind in Europe.
Balestrand
The express boat from Flåm to Balestrand, on the opposite shore of the peaceful Sognefjord takes about one hour and a half.
Originally frequented by English aristocrats, Balestrand became connected to the Romantic movement during the 19th century with many European artists settling in town for its distinctive light and the dramatic fjord landscape. Guro, our host, continues to preserve this long tradition of hosting tourists.
Week 3 – The majestic Geirangerfjord
Bergen
Arriving in Bergen on board the big catamaran from Balestrand is a unique experience to discover the magnificent landscape in Bergen’s nearby fjords and the vast Nordhordland region.
Once a trading power in medieval Europe, Bergen is a beautiful city situated on the southwest coast of Norway. Bryggen, the old wharf known for its colorful wooden houses, is a reminder of the town’s importance at that time.
From here, some people attempt the hike to Trolltunga, one of the most scenic and spectacular cliffs in Norway! Careful, though. The hike is 27km long with almost 1km of elevation gain.
We initially planned to stay longer in Bergen, but due to a favorable weather window in the Geirangerfjord, we decided to speed up our travel to the North aboard the Hurtigruten Coastal Express.
Geiranger
Nestled deep at the heart of the majestic Geirangerfjord, surrounded by spectacular waterfalls and impressive mountains stands the picturesque village of Geiranger. The view from the ridge right above the ferry and cruise ship terminal, is perhaps the best viewpoint of the fjord.
There are also a number of legendary sights and waterfalls to spot in the area, including “The Seven Sisters”, dancing playfully down the mountain, and “The Suitor”, sitting right opposite of them.
From https://sweetmeanders.co.uk/the-geiranger-fjord-norway/
Ålesund
After three nights camping in Geiranger, we took the boat once again to Ålesund, a charming port city situated on a cluster of small islands at the entrance of the Geirangerfjord.
Spend some time exploring Ålesund to admire the city’s distinctive architectural style with turrets, spires and imaginative ornamentation. From here, the best way to get back to Oslo is to take the night bus.
Make sure to stop at Dråpe Ålesund Kaffehus, a modern, cozy cafe serving vegan options in a homely atmosphere.
Epilogue – Copenhagen
To finish off this journey, we took the overnight ferry from Oslo to Copenhagen. Considered one of the happiest places in the world, the Danish capital is a trendy and vibrant waterside city. It is renowned for its historical buildings and modern architecture, gourmet bakeries and thousands of bike lanes.
Arriving at Østerport, we stumbled upon the famous Little Mermaid statue from the character in H.C. Andersen’s fairytale. This residential area is definitely worth exploring if you want to experience local Danish life and culinary delight.
Veve is a Michelin-starred restaurant where we had an extraordinary fine dining experience.
