Read time: 11 min
Shortly after we moved to Berlin, I decided to go on a solo adventure to Paris by bike.
Am I crazy? I was doubting until the day before the start, but the desire to reach new heights and to find solitude was too strong.
Inspired by incredible tales of human adventure, I took my bike and left Berlin full of hope and expectations. It is my turn to share my story.
Contents
In a nutshell
My journey starts in Berlin and takes me through the northern plains of Germany. It follows the EuroVelo 2 route to Münster, then turns southward to Aachen, through the Rhine-Ruhr region. From here, the journey continues in the Netherlands, Belgium and France. It follows the EuroVelo 3 route along the Meuse river and through Aisne and Oise, where a picturesque route leads to Paris. It is 1,400 km long and it took me 12 days to complete it. I took one day of rest halfway.
EuroVelo is a network of long-distance cycling routes that connects and unites the entire European continent. For more information, visit https://en.eurovelo.com/.
12-day bike trip itinerary
Part 1: The northern plains of Germany
⏰ 5 days | ⛰ 633 km | 🚴🏻♂️ 37 h | 🔥 14,100 kcal
Berlin, on a hot summer day. I give the first pedal push. It is both exciting and scary. My journey takes me through Berlin’s various neighborhoods, between past and present.
At the Brandenburg Gate, where the victorious armies had to pass before, I take the first photograph.
A few kilometers further, I enter the city of Potsdam, the residence of the emperors of Prussia.
I am now in Brandenburg. Located around Berlin, Brandenburg is a state rich in lakes and forests (nearly 3000!). Großer Wannsee, Templiner See and Schwielosee reveal themselves to me, while scented pine forests complete the panorama.
I cross the Elbe river, separating Brandenburg and Sachsen-Anhalt. Here, a long and winding road takes me through endless crops. There, a medieval castle dominates the idyllic scenery.
Time to relax. When I am done pedaling, I like to lay down in the hammock and think of the distance covered.
On another day, I cross the former border between East and West Germany. Today, only a small sign recalls the history of the place.
A little known cycling path stretches between the twin cities of Holzminden and Höxter, providing a beautiful view of the Weser river on a sunny day.
I am now in the region of Münsterland, where Denise is originally from. She happens to be here for the weekend and we meet at her family’s house. I decide to take a day of rest.
Part 2: The Rhine-Ruhr region
⏰ 2 days | ⛰ 239 km | 🚴🏻♂️ 15 h | 🔥 5,100 kcal
This large metropolitan area gets its name from the two surrounding rivers, the Rhine and the Ruhr, and is Germany’s most densely populated area.
The region was formed during the 19th and 20th centuries by the coal and steel industries. Today, it is one of the most dynamic regions in Europe.
Schloss Raesfeld, before the Rhine-Ruhr region, where one cannot discern one city’s borders from another.
The brewing storm above the Duisburg Inner Harbour (Duisburger Innenhafen in German), one of the area’s biggest cities.
Once out of the Rhine-Ruhr region, nature quickly reclaims her rights.
A little bit further, a gentle hill leads to the historic city of Aachen. Located in the center of a tri-border region (Dreiländereck in German), it is famous for its Cathedral, the oldest in Northern Europe, which served as a place of coronation for nearly every German king.
I spend one night in a farm, in the southernmost part of the Netherlands. This region is known for its hilly landscape, blossom-covered orchards and beet fields.
Part 3: The Meuse valley
⏰ 2 days | ⛰ 253 km | 🚴🏻♂️ 15 h | 🔥 5,500 kcal
I am now in Wallonia, Belgium’s French-speaking region, where the route winds through the Meuse valley, a long trench in the Ardennes mountains formed about 400 million years ago.
Here, the riverbanks are lined with idyllic small towns and dramatic limestone cliffs.
I branch off from the main road to meet with a couple of friends, Émilie and Valentin. They kindly offered me to stay at their place. We haven’t seen each other for a few years so this is a time for celebration. A fresh beer tops off the happy reunion.
In Namur, the route follows the Sambre river through the Franco-Belgian coal basin, formerly an important industrial district and Wallonia’s industrial backbone.
France greets me under a gray and rainy sky. I am now in L’Avesnois, an unspoiled countryside alternating green hedges with dense forests.
In the afternoon, a strong rain forces me to stop and wait for the good weather. It is one of those rare moments, when peace and quiet surround you.
When the storm runs out of rain, I hit the road again. A greenway that follows the old railway line takes me to Lac du Val-Joly, a beautiful lake surrounded by a softly undulating bocage landscape.
Part 4: Between Aisne and Oise
⏰ 1 day | ⛰ 177 km | 🚴🏻♂️ 13 h | 🔥 3,500 kcal
The day begins with a soft rain and white mist. Quietly, I pack all my stuff again and head on for the longest day of my trip.
I am now in the Thiérarche region, where the route winds between vast ramparts, offering a soothing environment. Wild boars and dears don’t seem to care about my presence in these sacred woods.
Not the gentle murmur of the streams. Not the hissing sound of the wheels on the asphalt. Nothing seems to disturb the morning calm.
The greenway continues in the historic town of Guise, where a short break is necessary.
A series of canals connect the Sambre river to the Aisne and the Oise rivers. The construction of these canals was decided at the beginning of the 19th century with the aim of supplying Paris with coal extracted in the Franco-Belgian coal basin. The nearly straight route stretches more than 100 km next to the canals and crosses no less than 20 gates! The routine puts my nerves on trial.
In the distance, I notice the small town of Noyon and its Gothic cathedral whose tall towers appear as pencil thin lines on the horizon.
The imperial city of Compiègne, with its castle and historic center, greets me with the first real sunset I have seen since I left Germany a few days ago.
My parents’ friends, Joelle and Pierre, welcome me to their home and treat me with a hearty meal. I am determined to go all the way to the end.
Part 5: The Paris Basin
⏰ 1 day | ⛰ 118 km | 🚴🏻♂️ 10 h | 🔥 2,400 kcal
The term “Paris Basin” refers to a geological structure in the shape of a broad shallow bowl. It also corresponds to the socio-economic space under the influence of Paris. In other words, I am almost fucking arrived.
From Compiègne, the route follows the Oise river and branches off to Senlis, a medieval town courted by kings and queens. Then, it continues in the Ermenonville forest, a vast area populated by pines and heather.
At the edge of the woods, the route crosses La Plaine de France, a broad area of open and flat terrain whose rural character is evidenced by the many crops of beet and cereal.
In Gressy, the route follows the Ourcq canal along its banks until it connects with the Bassin de la Villette and the Canal Saint-Martin.
I enter Paris accompanied by the sound of music. Well it is Saturday night. Everyone is enjoying the cool air outside and the café terraces are full. Paris est en fête!
I ride up the Champs-Élysées, where my friend Émir is waiting for me. At the Arc de Triomphe, I take the last photograph. Finally, I arrive at my parents’ house on the other side of Paris. We give a long hug and just like that, I reach the end of my journey.
Useful information for a bike trip
How to plan a bike trip?
- Look for known itineraries and download the maps.
- Split your journey at reasonable intervals and plan one or two extra days if needed.
- Look for food and accommodations along your route.
- If you plan to camp outside, check if wild camping is allowed. Don’t break the rules.
- Pack smartly. This is crucial and should not be overlooked.
I used the app Komoot (https://www.komoot.de/) to find the itinerary and I used the app Hexplo (https://app.hexplo.fr/) to break it down into 12 stages based on my experience.
What to pack for a bike trip?
- Wear proper layering: a base layer to absorb the sweat, a mid-layer to keep you insulated and an outer layer to protect you from the wind, rain or snow.
- Leave your back free. Front/rear racks, panniers or even handlebar bags, there are many options to travel without a backpack.
- If you camp outside, make sure to be dry. A tent or a tarp is a must even in summer.
I chose to pack very lightly. I bought a big saddlebag and a smaller one that fits on the bike frame. I neglected the underquilt for bottom insulation and I started to get a cold backside after a few hours every night. Don’t repeat the same mistake!
Where to sleep on a bike trip?
- Outside. A tent or a hammock is the most easy and affordable way to spend the night.
- Inside. Hotels, inns, hostels and guest houses can be a good option to recharge your battery.
I switched between camping, hotels and at friends’ places. There’s something about carrying your camp gear that is really awesome. The mix also allowed me to get some good rest, which was totally worth it after a long day.
Where to eat on a bike trip?
It is easier if you have your food thought out ahead of time, whether you decide to cook or to eat out.
Because of my light equipment, I couldn’t carry too much food with me but I made sure to have two bottles of water and a good load of snacks: cereal bars, nuts, fruits and candies.
How to be safe on a bike trip?
- Take spares and basic tools to perform repairs when you’re in the middle of nowhere.
- Tell your friends and family where you’re going and share the itinerary with them.
Most of these routes take separate (paved) cycling paths or low traffic roads. I just bought a GPS to keep track of the places I visited and to share with them.